Check the Stitching, Not Just the Fabric
Thirty years doing this and I don't think anyone's ever asked me what I'm actually checking for. Most people are looking at the fabric. Nice color, feels sturdy, sold. I let them keep thinking that's the test.
It's not.
Bags almost never fail because the material tears. I've seen ballistic nylon outlast the owner's patience for traveling altogether. What gives out is the stitching — specifically where the straps and handles attach to the body of the bag. That seam is doing all the work every time you pick the thing up, sling it over a shoulder, drag it up a curb. Get close and actually look at it. Good work there is thick, doubled over, sometimes boxed with an X for reinforcement. If all you see is one thin line of thread holding a strap on, you won't notice it's a problem on day one. You'll notice at baggage claim, three months in, when the strap lets go and the bag hits the floor.
Nobody Thinks About the Zipper Until It's the Problem
And this is the one people skip over constantly, which is a mistake.
A cheap plastic zipper works fine right up until you try to fit one more thing in the bag than it was built for — which is every trip you'll ever take. Then it splits, or the pull just stops catching the teeth, and you're standing in an airport trying to bungee your suitcase shut with a phone charger.
Spend the extra money on metal teeth or a real spiral zipper. Tug on the pull yourself before you buy it — press down on the bag like it's fully packed and see if it still glides. If it sticks or feels loose on the showroom floor, that's the best it's ever going to feel.
Buy for the Trip You Actually Take
Soft-sided bags with water-resistant fabric are the right call if you want give in the material and outside pockets you can grab from without unzipping the whole thing. They pack into weird spaces, they flex, they forgive you.
But if what you're carrying is fragile — camera gear, a couple of good bottles, anything with hinges or glass — a hard-shell polycarbonate case will do more for you on a baggage belt than any amount of padding stuffed into a soft bag. The belt doesn't know it's fragile. The case has to.
None of this is complicated, and none of it's glamorous. A good bag is the kind of thing you're not supposed to think about once you've bought it. It should just hold up, trip after trip — so the only thing you're stressed about getting to the airport is the airport.